CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE COMPLETE  PHOTO GALLERY — CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE COMPLETE PHOTO GALLERY

April 30 to May 11, 2015
Budapest, Bratislava, Salzburg, Vienna, Prague
Grand Circle Cruise Line

CLICK PHOTOS TO ENLARGE AND SEE CAPTIONS

Szia from Hungary! (like “see ya”) As usual, I like to start my travelogues with a greeting in the vernacular of the country we are visiting. Again, a difficult language, unlike the indo-European languages most of us are familiar with. The only equivalents are Finnish, Estonian and Basque. However, it is still spoken in parts of Austria, Slovenia, Slovakia, Romania, Ukraine, Croatia and Serbia. OK, that’s if for the linguistics lesson.

Following our GCCL cruise on the Netherlands Waterways (see appropriate travelogue), we flew from Brussels to Budapest, while our first cruise’s companions were flying back to the US. We stayed there for two days prior to the departure of our second, above-mentioned cruise, and enjoyed our free-wheeling time before joining yet another group. The upper respiratory bug I caught the day we left Antwerp somewhat interfered with my enjoyment of Budapest, but the weather was again lovely, with blue skies and sunshine to enhance this gorgeous city.

This interlude gave us a chance to rest a bit, and to enjoy an evening dinner-cruise on the Danube (I am a sucker for those touristy things), just the two of us. As well as Robin’s treat for my birthday (April 29) which was wedged between the end of the first cruise, and the beginning of the second: a lovely dinner in one of Budapest best-know and oldest restaurants, with gypsy music and dancers throughout the evening. A delightful treat, which gave us the unexpected opportunity to see, directly across the street from it, a modern sculpture dedicated to Hungarian Jewish victims of the Nazis. I have been unable to identify the artist. There was a McDonald’s next to the restaurant, but we decided to forgo it in favor of keeping the reservation that Robin had made on line prior to our departure.

Also before we left the US, I had bought online vouchers for two-day passes on a Hop-on-Hop-off bus (HOHO for short for the rest of this travelogue) -- which we like to do the first day we are in a new city. Our Marriott Hotel was unfortunately not the one by the Danube that I had expected, but one in the center of the city. Though a disappointment, it worked out OK with the help of HOHO. We got to get a good overlook of the city, without the wear-and-tear.

Budapest’s population of a little short of 1,8 million (the metro area totals over three million), of the Catholic persuasion for the most part, spreads over the two halves of the city, Buda and Pest. Its economy is sluggish and many people seem to be dissatisfied with how little their government is doing to improve their lot. Salaries are low, and our young Hungarian Tour Director told us how many of her friends have emigrated to other European countries to make a better living. Although it joined the European Union in April 2004, Hungary’s slow economy is the reason it has yet to adopt the euro as its currency, which is still the forint ($1 = HU 280).

Trivia: All taxis in Budapest are yellow, and all charge the same fare of 280 forints per kilometer, or one dollar.

Buda is on the west side of the Danube, on the hilly part of the City, more upscale and well-off than the Pest side, and with a higher percentage of cars. That’s also where most of the monuments can be found.

Pest is very flat, on the east side of the river, with more young people, and most of Budapest’s 18 universities, the nightlife and the theaters. Housing is cheaper and smaller there, with excellent public transportation.

After we met our new group and crew, we spent another two days in Budapest. The first day was May 1st, which is a holiday in all of Europe, the equivalent of Labor Day. In honor of same, part of the center of the city was closed to traffic to allow for the crowds to gather on the banks of the Danube to watch an air show in the morning (with small planes swooping in various acrobatics, up and around and under the bridges). Since we were docked near the Chain Bridge, the city’s most famous -- and the first permanent bridge built across the Danube --, we had first-row seats (on our top deck, that is). This was followed in the afternoon by a car race, with Formula One race cars revving up on the banks, racing across the bridges, going around, and racing back over more bridges. The morning was a treat but the afternoon was not!

On our first night on board, the Captain took us for a ride down the Danube with the city’s monuments and important buildings illuminated. One of those Wow! moments.

Trivia: When asked their name, Hungarians give their last name first. So I’ll say: “Hi, I am Bondeux Monique”, not Monique Bondeux. France follows the same rule but only in the written form such as forms, questionnaires, applications, etc.

Hungary’s history is a tormented one at best. Because of its geographic location, it was prey to a myriad invaders, starting with the Celts before 1AD, then the Romans for whom it was a major strategic point because of the presence of the Danube River. Further invasions by various barbarian tribes like the Mongols and the Huns (whose name has nothing to do with the country’s English name), led to the significant arrival of the Magyar tribes at the end of the ninth century. They gave their name to the country they created, which is why Hungarian people call themselves Magyars.

The Ottomans invaded Budapest in the mid-16th century, and their Turkish occupation lasted over 140 years. This was followed with the appropriation of Hungary by the Hapsburg Empire. Hungary’s struggle for independence lasted through its War of Independence starting in 1848, ending in 1918 when Hungary proclaimed itself a separate country. After WWI, the shameful Treaty of Trianon between Hungary and the Allied Powers arbitrarily partitioned the country which lost 2/3 of its territory. That is when Transylvania became Romania.

As if this wasn’t bad enough, Germany invaded Budapest in 1944, and early 1945 was marked by the siege of the city by Soviet and Romanian troops against the German and Hungarian troops. The city was practically destroyed. Next, in 1949, Budapest was renamed the People’s Republic of Hungary under the new Communist regime. It was only when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989 that peace was finally restored and a democracy established.

Trivia: The Hungarian flag reflected the Magyars’ ideals when they created the country: green for hope, red for strength and white for loyalty.

The Jewish presence has always been very important in Hungary, beginning in medieval times. They were persecuted by the Turks, then the Hapsburgs, then the Germans. It’s only between the two world wars, as well as during the reign of King Matthias in the 15th century, that Jews got their proper representation. In 1900, the Jewish population of the city peaked to 23.6%. Today, the population of Jews living in Hungary is around 120,000 with 110,000 mostly concentrated in Budapest. The Dohàny Street Synagogue is the largest synagogue in Europe and the Eastern Hemisphere, and the second largest synagogue in the world after the Temple Emanu-El in New York City.

No traveler who visits Budapest should miss the following:

- the Parliament, a majestic complex overlooking the river, containing St. Stephen’s Basilica -- the founder of Hungary in the 11th century -- and the Hungarian Crown Jewels; it was completed in 1904, after his architect went blind;

- the Royal Palace on Castle Hill, a 13th-century palace and complex, a symbol of Hungarian identity, and now containing two museums and one of the two national libraries, with the neighboring Sàndor Palace, residence of the President of Hungary;

- Heroes Square, an impressive and most important square of the city, noted for its iconic statue complex. Started in 1896 and finished in 1900, it features the Seven Chieftains of the Magyars and other important national leaders, as well as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier;

- Fisherman’s Bastion, which owes its name to the namesake corporation which during the Middle Ages was responsible for the defense of this part of ramparts. It yields an outstanding panoramic view of the whole city;

- Matthias’s Church, a 700-year-old church so named after King Matthias Corvenus, first king of the city, whose colored shingles are stunning (the roof’s, not the king’s.)

- a must in my opinion also is the Hospital in the Rock, built in a pre-existing underground cave network. The caves were created by thermal waters which predate the Roman era and are still available at the several local spas. Built as a state-of-the-art emergency medical facility during WWII, it also served the same purpose during the 1945 siege of Budapest. It was finally revived during the 1956 uprising as a hospital. It is now a wax museum which I found a moving testimony to the resiliency of the human spirit.

On our way up the Danube, we sailed by another historic landmark, the castle of Visegrad, whose upper structure was built in the 13th century to defend against the Mongols, and the lower structure in the 15th by King Matthias to defend against the Ottomans. It is now a lovely tourist town in this beautiful, forested region.

After four days in Hungary/Budapest, we sailed north to Slovakia, where our stop was its capital of Bratislava. Therefore, I’ll say Ahoj! (Yes, just like the marine term.)

Despite drizzly and grey skies, we enjoyed the walking tour of the center of town with our Tour Director, a 35-year-old Czech guy, very proud of his country, and very knowledgeable. Bratislava used to be called Pozsony when it was the capital of Hungary. After WWI, 40% of the population of Slovakia was Hungarian. But after the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, the local Czechoslovakian population asserted itself and pressured the Hungarians to leave, so that today Hungarians make up only 8%. Czechoslovakia was created as a separate country, with different cultures and languages cohabitating peacefully. But in 1993, the two presidents agreed to separate the two countries, which became the Czech Republic and Slovakia overnight, quietly, without a referendum or notice to all.

Slovakia adopted the euro at the same time it joined the EU in 2004. It is a very mountainous country, enticing Czechs to come back to ski. Although their languages are very similar, only the older generations understand each other well now. The younger ones (in their 20’s) make their respective languages evolve, and communication is no longer that easy (this from an “old” 35-yr-old.)

That evening, we were treated to a colorful and lively Slovak folk dancing show on board, which was a refreshing change from the stiffly formal one in Holland. The difference in temperaments and cultures was very evident.

The next day, a young bilingual Slovak teacher came on board to give us a lecture on the state of education in his country. School is mandatory until age 14, followed by secondary school. But it’s known to all that not finishing high school is a ticket for stagnation and low income for ever. School teachers are paid a pittance, which puts all to shame internationally. Most university degrees take five years, and there is a lesser percentage of law students than in the US, because the need for attorneys is minimal since the litigious climate we unfortunately know in the US (and now pervading western Europe) is almost inexistent in eastern Europe. There is no drug problem to speak of, except for marijuana and cigarettes (we should be so lucky here…).

When we arrived in Vienna, Austria, I was starting to feel the effects of an extended adventure. Consequently, I am afraid – for my own sake even more than for yours -- that I stayed on board on several occasions when Robin explored, using my camera to take the photos I wanted and needed. He did a pretty good job, so I’ll keep him on.

In Austria, where Gustav Klimt (my favorite abstract artist) was born, we also went to Durnstein, Melk Abbey, Linz and Salzburg.

Austria is a federal republic of over 8.5 million people, bordered by eight European countries: Czech Republic and Germany to the North, Hungary and Slovakia to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Lichtenstein to the west (there will be a test at the end of this travelogue to see if you remember them all). German is the official language, spoken by 90% of the population, 78% of which is Catholic, but church attendance has been declining for several decades. Like most of its neighboring countries, Austria uses the euro as its currency.

The origins of modern-day Austria date back to the time of the Hapsburg Dynasty, when the vast majority of the country was a part of the Holy Roman Empire. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Austria was able to retain its position as one of the great powers of Europe and, in response to the coronation of Napoleon as the Emperor of the French, the Austrian Empire was officially proclaimed in 1804. After the collapse of the Hapsburg (Austro-Hungarian) Empire in 1918 at the end of World War I, Austria adopted and used the name the Republic of German Austria (Deutschösterreich, later Österreich) in an attempt for union with Germany. This, however, was forbidden by the Treaty of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, and the First Austrian Republic was established in 1919. Austria was occupied and annexed by Nazi Germany in 1938. This lasted until the end of WWII in 1945, after which Germany was occupied by the Allies and Austria's former democratic constitution was restored.

courtyard and entrance of vienna's hofburg palace

Vienna’s highlights are contained within the 4-km Ringstrasse around the city center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Within its limits are found the Parliament, City Hall, Opera House, and major museums. One piece of its famous baroque architecture is the Hofburg Imperial Palace, a medieval castle which now houses a National Library. Vienna’s 1.8 million citizens are treated daily to a dizzying succession of glorious buildings, parks and gardens in many neighborhoods, including in front of the Palace and the City Hall. Outside the ring road could be found the Schönnbrunn Palace, winter residence of the ruling Hapsburgs.

The highlight was a Mozart and Strauss public concert, accompanied by singers and dancers, in the upstairs Lanner Hall of the Kursalon Opera House. With its festive ceiling and dazzling lighting, this magnificent room is the palace’s heart and the impressive main concert hall of the Kursalon House.

The following day, while sailing north up the Wachau Valley on the Danube, we discovered Durnstein, a small village nestled in the rocky cliff overlooking the Danube among flowers and gardens of all sorts. A delightful change from the hustle-bustle of large cities, it gave us the opportunity for a leisurely stroll through its narrow cobblestoned streets, lined with lovely shops. Besides its natural beauty, Durnstein owes its fame to the fact that Britain’s King Richard the Lionhearted was held captive in this hilltop castle in 1192 by Duke Leopold V. The latter was an Austrian noble who had fought alongside the king during the Crusades, and who was reportedly seeking retribution against Richard for slighting him during the siege of Acre (talk about holding grudges…). A sculpture of the two of them is carved in the rock on that cliff.

Trivia: Austria’s main resources are agriculture and tourism.

Later that afternoon, and along that same Wachau Valley, we soon arrived at Melk, whose 900-year-old Abbey was originally an ancient Roman border post. It became a Benedictine monastery in 1089 and earned a serious reputation for scholarship. Its library includes more than 70,000 books and 2,000 manuscripts, dating from the ninth through the 15th centuries. A kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, the building itself comprises 365 windows, one for each day of the year. The gardens surrounding the building are an attraction in themselves.

Trivia: Deer do not cross the border from Czech Republic to Austria, because they have been genetically programmed to stay away from barbed wire (from when there used to be fences between the two countries). Animals are smarter than people.

Our next docking port-of-call after rounding the spectacular curb of the Danube, was Linz, from where we would go to spend the whole day in Salzburg, another highlight of the trip. Very close to the Czech border, Linz – which has the dubious distinction of being Hitler’s hometown -- is the third largest Austrian City, and spreads on both sides of the Danube. Our guide pointed out the balcony window in the Town Hall from which Hitler annexed Austria in 1938.

On a more pragmatic note, Linz is also well known for the Linzer Torte, which is said to be the oldest cake in the world, with its first recipe dating from 1653. Try it, you’ll like it!

Trivia: Austria feels very German, obviously because of the common language, but also with their neatness, the absence of people of color, and their almost neurotic punctuality. Not to mention the food.

And finally, Salzburg was revealed to us. An astounding city, though so very crowded with tourists that, again, we didn’t want to think of it in the summer. Our local guide in the morning was very knowledgeable, and we learned enough to want to discover more on our own the rest of the day, under sunny blue skies. Which came as a surprise to all, including our guide, since Salzburg is the rainiest part of Austria, and you can always expect rain whenever you go. We enjoyed lunch in Stiffskeller, allegedly the oldest restaurant in Europe, in the St. Peter Archabbey.

The fourth largest city in Austria, its castle dominates the skyline and offers wonderful views of the city. It became listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. Following WWI and the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Salzburg, as the capital of one of the Austro-Hungarian territories, became part of the new German Austria. In 1918, it represented the residual German-speaking territories of the Austrian heartlands. This was replaced by the First Austrian Republic in 1919, after the Treaty of Versailles. The Third Reich annexed it in 1938, followed by the arrest and deportation of all Jewish and minority people. US troops entered Salzburg in 1945, after 46% of its buildings and monuments (including the cathedral) had been bombed by the Germans. Fortunately, most of the baroque architecture was spared.

Being Mozart’s birthplace, as well as the composer Anton Bruckner’s, Salzburg offers a large pedestrians-only area, chock full of lovely shops with attractive windows, cafés, etc. Of course, and alas, the tourist trade is given to excesses exploiting every aspect of the famous Mozart in ways that lack taste.

Trivia: In Austria, buses don a box on their windshields which are automatically scanned with a beep as they drive by along freeways, to record the mileage accumulated. The latter is entered in the corresponding account, which is paid monthly (I assume). Same as our transponder system, but even more sophisticated.

The time had come to say good-bye to Linz, the beautiful Danube, and our ship and its crew. They all gave us a warm and friendly send-off from the top deck, before quickly turning around to get the ship ready for the next batch of passengers coming from Prague, and going the other way, thus returning to Budapest! We, however, hopped on a bus and headed for the neighboring Czech Republic, on our way to Prague, four hours away.

On the way there, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a little gem which surprised us all: Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic. Since Czech is almost identical to Slovak, I’ll say Ahoj! A new language, and a new currency (the crown is worth 40 US cents).

Since that day happened to be May 8 – celebrated in Europe for its being the end of WWII --, and this being 2015 making it the 70th anniversary of the liberation of Czechoslovakia by American troops, military ceremonies were taking place on the largest square of town. The city Mayor officiated, surrounded by the US Ambassador to the Czech Republic and the Military Commander of NATO. Various military staff and equipment were also part of the event.

cesky krumlov - the town from the castle

As a matter of fact, while the Americans liberated western Czechoslovakia, Prague and the eastern part of the country were liberated by the Red Army. Consequently, Russians celebrate what they consider their liberation of Prague from the Germans, which actually took place the next day, on May 9. But the Czech Republic celebrates their liberation by US troops on May 8!

Located on the banks of the Vltava river, Cesky Kremlov is a beauty of a town, built around a 13th-century castle of gothic, Renaissance and baroque elements, full of tourists ambling on cobblestoned streets lined with quirky or classy shops.

Trivia: “We have had peace since 1945 (end of WWII), but freedom only since 1989 (fall of the Berlin Wall)” (quote from a native Czech)

The Czech Republic is bordered by Germany to the west, Austria to the south, Slovakia to the southeast, and Poland to the northeast. It includes the historical territories of Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia. The Czech state was formed in the ninth century, in the old province of Bohemia. Its long history speaks of endless battles between Catholics and Protestants, of its becoming part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, of being occupied by Germany during WWII, and also liberated in 1945 by US troops. It became communist in 1948, when the far left communist regime was almost a relief from the far right nazi philosophy. During the 1960’s, a reform movement, led by Alexander Dubcek, attempted to weaken the hold of the Soviet Union. This culminated in the 1968 “Prague Spring” -- the Czech equivalent of the 1956 Hungarian Uprising – which was suppressed by the Soviets.

cesky krumlov - the banks of the vltava river

After all those wars in the name of God, Czechs aren't into religion. The current situation in the Czech Republic is about 10% Catholic, with the rest of unspecified affiliation.

As a reminder of what I mentioned about the split up of Czechoslovakia in 1993, the two presidents agreed to separate the two countries, which became the Czech Republic and Slovakia overnight, quietly, without a referendum or notice to all.

Trivia: Our Czech Program Director emphatically stated that Czech beer is the best in Europe, quoting preposterous amounts consumed per year by its citizens. However, familiar with English beer as my English husband and I are, we reserved our own judgment.

Now for Prague itself, I had also purchased HOHO passes prior to leaving the US, and they served us well there. Which entitled us to a river cruise, and an endless ride on the HOHO bus.

During the reign of Charles IV, King of Bohemia and Moravia, it was the seat of the Holy Roman Empire. Later it was the vital center of the Hapsburgs. While other European cities were leveled during WWII, Prague survived virtually intact. Most of the major historic sites are found in the city center, around the Old Town Square, a short distance from the Charles Bridge. The Charles Bridge, finished in the beginning of the 15th century, was a 12th- century Gothic masterpiece, with its famous baroque statues, added over a period of 250 years. However, it was impossibly and uncomfortably crowded.

The Old Town neighborhood is reserved for pedestrians, and is a dream of picturesque buildings, narrow streets, stunning roofs and artwork. Not to forget restaurants tucked into alleys, amongst tiny shops. The Old Town square also includes the 14th century Town Hall, with the famous Astronomical Clock dating from 1410. The whole area is like an animated postcard.

Trivia: Budweiser is a Czech town known for brewing beer. Anheuser-Busch bought the brewing company, and sold it in the US as their own.

Other sights include the Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, all on the other side of the river. Dating back to the ninth century, the Prague Castle is the official residence and office of the President of the Czech Republic. The Guinness Book of World Records lists the Prague Castle as the largest ancient castle in the world. St. Vitus Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Prague, and where the coronation of kings and queens took place. Its construction was started in the 14th century, on a site which had been a church, then a basilica, in the 9th century.

Our Program Director, age 35, being a native Czech, had grown up during the communist era and lived through the fall of the Berlin Wall. The population felt relieved to see the contrast between the far right Nazis and the far left communists. He felt quite free sharing with us that their current president is not liked by the majority of the population because not only is he an alcoholic, but he also fraternizes with Putin, whom the people don’t care for.

frank gehry's  dancing house — frank gehry's dancing house

The cost of living is lower than in upscale Austria, and the population is very homogeneous, i.e. nobody of color. However, it seems that a large influx of refugees and immigrants have recently settled in the Czech Republic. Without being necessarily welcomed by the local population.

Our last delightful sight was Frank Gehry's (the American architect) Dancing House, a replica of which we had seen in Paris at the Pompidou Center last Christmas, for a Gehry special exhibition. It was fantastic seeing the real thing!

And so we reached the end of our second European river cruise, and it was time to go home. And it was a good thing.

Travelogues

Travelogues

DANUBE CRUISE (Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Czech Republic)

CLICK PHOTOS TO ENLARGE AND SEE CAPTIONS