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August 15 to September 30, 2012
England, France and Italy
Independent +GCT tour

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PHASE 3 -Saying good-bye to France, we dropped off our rented car at the Marseille airport, and flew to Rome to meet our Grand Circle Travel group for Phase 3. As I said at the beginning of this travelogue, this section is going to be rather skimpy compared to others.

The one thing that very quickly struck us as we started visiting one gorgeous small town after another was the obvious parallel we couldn't help drawing between the two regions we visited in France and the two in Italy . Tuscany is very similar to both the Languedoc and Provence areas, with regards to vegetation, scenery and climate, having in common the very ubiquitous (and my favorite) tree: the cypress. On the other hand, the Amalfi Coast Drive reminded us very much of the Grande Corniche on the Riviera, both sinewy and narrow roads lining the precipitous rocky cliffs that drop down to the Mediterranean.

Val d'Orcia - Haze on the famous Z formation of cypresses in this typical Tuscan valley

The tour was set up to spend the first week in Chianciano (Tuscany), which worked out very well by minimizing the amount of packing/unpacking. This is considered the middle of Italy, north of Rome. Then, for the second week, we went three hours south to Sorrento (Campania), in the Bay of Naples, at the foot of the Mt. Vesuvius. Both in very satisfactory hotels. From each spot, we took many day trips in several directions, keeping a very busy pace. It is unavoidable considering the staggering abundance of lovely villages, stunning views, historical sites and archeological wonders in both regions.

After three weeks of a new destination each day, I would have a hard time remembering even names if not for the many photographs it was my pleasure to take. Yes, I was tired, and I couldn't have made it without my faithful cane. I even skipped a couple of visits/outings on foot which I just couldn't face, and stayed "home" vegging out.

To begin, I'll share our general impressions of Italy. During the four days we spent in Rome at the end of the two-week tour, it struck us that, if Italians took as good care of their buildings and antiquities as the French do of theirs, Rome would be an even more superlative city. Used to France, especially Paris, where monuments (like the Louvre), and residential buildings (like the one my sister lives in) MUST, by law, be cleaned up every so many years to remove the grime and soot caused by traffic and pollution, we both found Rome a dirty city.

Also, we were disappointed with the food (whether in the north as in Tuscany, or the south as in the Naples area), finding dishes, pasta or pizza not to be as spicy as we had expected and would have liked, and the bread quite blah and unsalted. However, we discovered first pecorino cheese -- which is a vast improvement over parmesan --, and also found Italian white wines comparable to the French ones, especially of the regional variety which are served in carafes or pitchers. And we did them justice! Both are hard to find in the U.S., where the superior American wines are really red.

Rome - Steps going up to the Basilica of St. Mary

Last, no matter where you go, there are steps and stairs everywhere. We understand in monuments or ancient structures or cities, but we never found a public building, hotel or restaurant where the restrooms were not downstairs. We wondered how disabled Italians function or see their world.

Trivia: Italians' concept of a minute had to be clarified at the very beginning by our tour director, who used a "German minute" as the yardstick of accuracy. The "Italian minute" extended out in a vague and variable manner. When we stopped somewhere, he specified if the number of minutes allotted were of the German or the Italian variety. Either we rushed, or not.

Like the Englishman who said once to Robin, referring to the several National Parks in within its borders: "Yeah, Utah is great but there are way too many stones" (sic), I will say: "Italy is great, but there are way too many churches". We are both very fond of archeological and ancient sites with a rich history steeped in many centuries, but Renaissance art, especially in churches, isn't our thing. However, there were enough non-religious sites to keep us busy, enthused and awed.

Starting with Orvieto (Umbria), this first of many Etruscan cities or villages that we were fortunate to visit on this tour, which sits on top of an impregnable rock made of tuff, a volcanic rock called tufa found all over the middle of Italy. A funicular took us up and up and up (after stairs and stairs and more stairs) to this medieval city which was annexed by Rome in the 5th century and is found on the way from Florence to Rome. A papal residence for centuries and Avignon's sister city, Orvieto boasts of a splendid Cathedral.

Next came Radicofani (Siena), located in the famous and gorgeous Val d'Orcia (a valley where most of the typical Tuscan scenery photographs you see on calendars and books and ads are taken). I got lost in another series of tortuous and sunny streets, bordered by many tenderly-cared-for gardens, flower-beds and planters, of which the residents are extremely proud and love it when tourists photograph them. Then we went to Montalcino, a neighboring town where we were treated to an inside and outside tour of the Casato Prime Donne winery, followed indoors by a wine-tasting accompanied by snacks of prosciutto, the local cheese pecorino, and bread. Founded in 1592 by Donatella Cinelli's ancestors, this is the first winery in Italy to be staffed exclusively with women. It is the producer of the famous Brunello red wine.

Then was planned our visit to Assisi (Umbria), where the stunning 13th-century Basilica of St. Francis is the main attraction of this medieval town. St. Francis founded the Franciscan religious order in 1208, after finding God had taken him away from the dissolute life he had been leading as a rich and idle young man. The basilica is comprised of a crypt, plus a lower church, and is topped by a higher church. The lower church has frescoes by renowned artists Cimabue and Giotto; while in the upper church are frescoes of scenes in the life of St. Francis previously ascribed to Giotto and now thought to be by artists of the circle of Pietro Cavallini of Rome. The Basilica was badly damaged by an earthquake on September 26, 1997 – during which part of the vault collapsed, killing four people inside the church and carrying with it a fresco by Cimabue. The edifice was closed for two years for restoration.

This was followed by what is #1 of my four favorite sites of this trip (#2 being Siena, #3 Amalfi, and #4 Capri), Pienza, in the heart of Val d'Orcia in Tuscany – which valley was added in 2004 to the list UNESCO' World Heritage Cultural Landscapes.

Pienza was a little jewel of a medieval town, with steep and narrow cobblestoned streets, with even narrower little side streets escaping right and left, almost unnoticed but calling me irresistibly. The two main historical sites are the Palazzo Piccolomini and the Duomo (cathedral). But my heart will stay with those little side streets.

The rest of the afternoon was devoted to the Etruscan Museum in Chianciano, devoted to the artifacts attributed to this culture dating back to 200-700 BC. It lasted till the Roman Empire military culture swept through and assimilated everything Etruscan. Most of the accomplishments we credit the Romans for were actually invented by the Etruscans.

The next highlight, and my #2 favorite, was the medieval city of Siena. With half the population of Florence, it has been and still is its archrival. Florence was founded and dominated by the Medicis, but several families shared the power in Siena, including the Piccolominis. The feuds in both cities' historical pasts have turned into a modern rivalry centered around culture, sophistication, food, and anything worth an ongoing game of one-upmanship. As was usual at the time, nobles from Tuscany ended up in the Vatican. Enea Piccolomini of Siena became Pope Pius II while the Medicis of Florence produced four popes.

Its Duomo (cathedral), built of black and white marble, is a stunning and awe-inspiring structure whose construction spanned from the 12th to the 14th centuries, combining both the Romanesque and the Gothic styles. The city's focus is the Piazza del Campo, a shell-shaped space bordered by hotels, shops and restaurants, which houses the famous Torre del Mangia. There, people congregate to socialize, and the famous Palio race takes place on July 2 and August 16 of each year.

Siena - Torre del Mangia on the Piazza di Campo

The Palio goes back to medieval times, and now lasts only about 90 seconds but is preceded by elaborate pageants in appropriate costumes. The race itself comprises men riding horses bareback, representing 10 of the 17 city wards, or arrondissements, and holding their ward's pennant. For the occasion, the perimeter of the Piazza del Campo is covered with thick dirt to make a track around the large center, where the public gather to watch.

The next day, we finally became acquainted with the Renaissance city of Florence. We were quite disappointed that not enough time was planned for visiting, as a group or individually, to see things such as the Uffizi Gallery. I guess we'll have to plan on another trip to do justice to this magnificent city. I must admit, also, that it was soooo crowded that my enjoyment of what I did see was somewhat spoiled. The best-known site of Florence is the domed cathedral of the city, Santa Maria del Fiore, known as The Duomo, whose dome was built by Filippo Brunelleschi.The nearby Campanile, partly designed by Giotto, and the Baptistry buildings are also highlights. The dome, 600 years after its completion, is still the largest dome built in brick and mortar in the world. It is all the more remarkable for having been built without any wooden supporting structure.

Florence - The Ponte Vecchio over the Arno river

We, of course, saw the famous Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) straddling the Arno River, and full of various shops. There again, though impressed by its beauty, I was overwhelmed by the crowds and noise, and felt the same urge to run as I did while contemplating (?) the Pyramids in Egypt.

Cortona was the last Tuscan beauty we enjoyed, passing through more rolling hills covered with vineyards, olive groves, farms surrounded or lined with cypresses, a vision which is forever etched in my visual memory. Only photos of those delightful cobblestoned and narrow side streets can speak of its reality.

The next day, we drove south to the Naples area where we would stay for a week in a hotel in Sorrento, with a view of the Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius standing guard behind its shores. We took what is called the Amalfi Drive. It took but a few miles to realize why it is so famous. Definitely a "Wow!" experience which lasted half the day, starting with Positano. Again, however, the road, and every stop on it, were very crowded, bathed in a cacophony of languages, Italian being the minority. It seems that September is still a very busy touristic month.

Trivia: Witnessing the traffic density and jams along the way made us wonder how it could possibly be worse, but were told "it's nothing compared to July and August!"….

And then the Bay and city of Amalfi, my #3 favorite places in Italy, were around the corner, and we just sat in our seats and took it all in, cameras at the ready and clicking away from inside our coach. The visit of the town was led by a local guide, followed by an optional boat ride along the coast, which satisfied my most ardent wish for photo-ops. Only photos can do justice, if at all, to that exceptional rocky and mountainous coast, whose shores include coves and sand beaches nestled under towering rocky outcrops, sprinkled with private homes (of the high-rent district variety), hotels (ditto), and boats (ditto).

Pompei - Ruins of the ancient Roman city

A stop in the splendid village of Ravello (Campania), going back to the fifth century and another UNESCO World Heritage site, allowed us to visit the ruins and gardens of the Villa Ruffolo, built in 1270. The Ravello Music Festival is held every summer in honor of Richard Wagner, who stayed at the local Hotel Luna and said Ravello was what inspired him to write "Parsifal". Again, the crowd effect was taking its toll.

That toll reached its peak the next day when we went to one of my bucket list items, Pompeii. (The ancient city is written with two i's, but the modern one is spelled Pompei.) Originally built around 7th-6th century BC, it was lost for 1,700 years after its extermination in 79 AD when Mt. Vesuvius exploded five miles away. After its discovery in 1748, the following excavating years revealed evidence of the city's previous skirmishes with volcanic and seismic events.

Before being annexed to the Roman Republic in 89 BC, Pompeii was conquered and occupied by the Phoenicians, the Greek and the Etruscan peoples, among others. The Appian Way ran nearby, thus making Pompeii a vital part of the Roman Empire's economic life and success. It was intended as a main route for military supplies since its construction for that purpose in the mid-4th century BC. Pompeii was a very sophisticated Roman city, boasting of sewers, central heating, public baths and a complex aqueduct system to keep the city's water supply coming during the frequent droughts.

An excellent guide walked us through very early in the day, so the beginning wasn't too bad, but as the morning went on, it became trickier and trickier to manage to take specific shots without the interference of people in the frame. I didn't always succeed. Which means I was away from our group more often than not. Since I couldn't absorb the myriad historical, archeological and geological details that we were bombarded with, I focused on imagining what life was like at that time, before this sophisticated city and its inhabitants were buried under and suffocated by a torrent of ash – and not lava, as usually assumed. Being covered by a tidal wave of hot lava was the fate of the nearby town of Herculaneum, northwest of Pompeii and on the sea. Which is why so many bodies, objects, mosaics and paintings were preserved intact over the centuries in Pompeii, and not in Herculaneum. Being on the sea, the inhabitants of the latter fled to the port to flee in boats, but the lava caught up with them and they had no place else to go. The historical 79 AD eruption of Mt. Vesuvius reduced the size of the mountain in half, from 6,000 to 3,000 ft, literally taking off its whole top.

Stabiae - Archeological site near Naples of another ancient city ruined by an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius

Another such site affected by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius was the city of Stabiae, much smaller than Pompeii, and 4.5 kms southwest of it, on the coast. It is a remarkable site which I unfortunately didn't see (I was too tired to take one more step), but Robin became the photographer. It was hit several times by several of the various consecutive surges which convulsed the whole mountain of Mt. Vesuvius. Stabiae was the retreat for Rome’s elite and power brokers. Serviced by many slaves, the average size of its larger estates was between 100,000 and 300,000 sq ft! Business was conducted in the midst of great luxury. Cicero is said to have owned several of these estates.

Trivia: Not much of the original city is left since it suffered both the fate of Pompeii, with a first layer of ashes, and of Herculaneum, with a second layer of lava.

One of the highlights was the traditional Grand Circle Travel home-hosted meal with local English-speaking families who are willing to cook a meal for a group of 8 or 10 people to give them a chance to learn of their own way of life, customs and interests. On this trip, we unfortunately were in the last group, with a non-English-speaking family, which meant our tour director had to come with us to interpret. It cramped everybody's style quite a bit, but we were the lucky recipients of the best meal we had in all three weeks in Italy: very simple but ultra-delicious. It was definitely the best pasta , with a dish of home-made sausage, and yummy roasted potatoes. Dessert was a tiramisu that didn't taste like anything we've ever had in the U.S. (where I never order it). We found our not being able to communicate directly with the matriarch (a 62-year old widow), her son, a friend of her son, and her grandson, quite frustrating. And our tour director was unfortunately not much help because appearing preoccupied. Their farm was really poor and rudimentary per our standards, though the house itself was comfortable with modern bathroom and kitchen. The property was accessed by yet another vertiginous and narrow road around Sorrento.

The last destination on our tour was the Island of Capri. Mamma mia!!!!! Another Wow! day, like Amalfi. We took a ferry from Sorrento (along with another two million people…). I was more and more feeling squeezed for space in my head (does that make sense?) and only focused on my photography to relieve the tension I was feeling. An excellent local guide took us on an unusual tour of the back and side streets where residents live but tourists don't go. We got to see both sides of Capri: the glitter, crowds, noise of the touristy, close-to-the-beach or in-town spots; and then the out-of-the-way, "normal" places where locals (mostly wealthy I might add) live in secluded houses perched on rocks overlooking the bay and the port, or the mountains. Again we were told it's "nothing compared to the summer months." But even then we had to struggle to stay close to our mate or companion, or just the group.

Capri reminded me of the French island of Corsica (they are very close, so it makes sense): mountainous islands, with rocky cliffs on almost all sides, beaches in coves in between vertiginous drops, mansions, villas or refuges nestled in crevasses in the rock, with breathtaking views which must cost a fortune.

After the end of the second week, the tour came to an end, but many of us were going on to Rome, for the four-day extension we had also signed up for. I have to admit that by then, we both wished we were going home. But we found a solution to avoid spending two more days in guided visits following the same people. We did what we like to do in a new city: spend the first day on a Hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus (HOBO), with a two-day pass so you can go back the next day to places you want to explore. It worked beautifully, and allowed me to take more photos than I would have on foot. We walked for several hours the following two days, and Robin even went out on his own while I stayed in the hotel and rested. Armed with the city map, it worked out very well and we very much enjoyed being on our own. All in all, it worked out very well.

Rome - Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels

While the features of Rome are too well documented to repeat here as first-time visitors, we were over-awed by the extensive antiquities seen throughout the city within their modern context. The clean lines of the English cathedrals were a distant memory as we viewed the incredibly rich Renaissance ornamentation of the churches in Rome. Maybe the most striking combination of the baroque with the romanesque was the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and Martyrs, which was built on top of the thermal baths of Diocletian dating from 306AD. The church based on Michelangelo’s design was built in 1564 and renovated in 1750. Its simple romanesque red brick entrance leads to a highly ornamented interior. To add to our enjoyment, an exhibition of Galileo’s discoveries was on display in the church, complete with a frank discussion of his conflict with the Vatican.

And so ended our long-awaited trip to Italy, where we were blessed with marvelous weather, heavenly scenery, glorious sights, good wine and first-class photo-ops. Arrivederci!

Travelogues

Travelogues

ITALY (Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, & Rome)

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